Letter from America: The craft of costuming

Ed Avis, executive director of the National Costumer’s Association looks at costuming as a craft.

We call the costume business an industry, but below the surface it’s more of a craft. So many creative people making beautiful things that spread joy. The business side of things is necessary, of course, but we shouldn’t forget the craft.

I was reminded of that recently when I had the pleasure to interview Tony Zagone, co-owner of Zagone Studios, a long-time supplier of high-quality masks to the costume industry. The reason for the interview was sad – the company is closing due to rising costs and other factors – but overall, what we discussed was uplifting.

Tony talked about the beginnings of his company. It emerged out of a magic shop his uncle ran in Chicago and evolved into a mask manufacturer when Tony’s uncle and father – Robert and Phil Zagone, respectively – realised that customers wanted masks but were unhappy with the quality of existing products.

Tony said: “My uncle and dad saw this opening, this unsatisfied customer and need and like other initiatives they wanted to make something better. Then they ran into a guy who said he knew how to make masks and he was set up in our garage to create and experiment.

“My older brother and I were the initial labour force. We would pour the masks, vulcanise them in the household clothes dryer and trim them. In fact, we both had to give up Little League to work.”

When they sold those first masks, they observed what customers liked and didn’t like and made adjustments to the designs. Among the innovations they developed in those early years were masks that could be easily adjusted and which allowed the wearer to comfortably breathe. Not to mention that they were far more realistic – and scary – than the competing products.

“I think the key to success with some of our best masks was that they were extremely unique at the time,” Tony said. “There was nothing like them. Some had movement, they fit really well, the wearer could entertain while wearing them and be the hit of the party. Product success was always a combination of the artwork, the look, the functionality, quality production and the uniqueness that made them successful.”

That kind of craftwork made Zagone Studios especially popular among independent costume businesses that appreciated the quality. These stores – many of which are members of the National Costumers Association – like to offer their customers high-quality products that they can’t find in ‘big box’ stores.

Ironically, it was the failure of one of those big box stores – Party City – that partially led to the end of Zagone Studios.

But the legacy of the company lives on: “It was very satisfying to make these masks, to see them being sold on the shelf was an amazing feeling,” Tony said. “The things we created brought a lot of fun to our customers and made the industry improve.”

The craftsmanship that Zagone Studios demonstrated is the beating heart of the costume industry. Let’s hope that that spirit continues even as some companies – like Zagone – pass on.

 

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